Charm jewelry glossary: bail, jump ring, clasp, pitch, karat, pavé and more
Bail, jump ring, pitch, karat, pavé and more.
This glossary explains the words used for charms and chains, in plain English. A bail is the loop on a charm. A jump ring joins it to a chain. Pitch is the spacing of links. Karat measures gold purity. Pavé is a surface of small stones set close together. Terms are grouped by where you will meet them.
Parts of a charm
Charm
A small ornament that hangs from a chain or bracelet. Our charms are solid gold, set with diamonds or gemstones.
Medallion
A larger, usually round charm. It often carries a design in the center, such as a star, an eye or a hamsa.
Bail
The small loop at the top of a charm. It takes the weight and is the point where the charm meets the chain.
Jump ring
A small ring of metal used to join two parts, such as a charm to a chain. It can be left open, soldered closed or welded shut.
Closed link
A ring or link with no gap. It cannot come undone by a snag or a pull.
Openwork
A design with open spaces cut through the metal, so light passes through. Our North Star Medallion is described this way.
Parts of a chain
Link
One loop of a chain. Chains are described by the shape of the link: oval, circle, box, rolo, paperclip or ball.
Pitch
The spacing between links. It is the distance from a point on one link to the same point on the next. Chains are sometimes described by their pitch in millimeters. We describe ours as Petite, Standard and Jumbo.
Petite, Standard, Jumbo
Our three link sizes. Petite is fine and delicate, Standard is the everyday weight and Jumbo is bold, with statement links. Each step is a large step in gold, and in price. See which chain is best for charms.
Length
Necklaces come in 16, 20 and 24 inches. Bracelets come in four wrist sizes, from Small (6 to 6.5 inches) to X-Large (7.5 to 8 inches).
Magic Middle
Our name for the connector ring at the drop of the chain, where charms and a lariat thread through. It comes plain or with diamonds, in Standard or Jumbo.
Lariat
A necklace or a chain with a free end, or extra links added at the end, that hangs below the main chain.
Drop
The part of a necklace that hangs lowest. Charms settle there.
Clasps
A clasp closes a necklace or bracelet. The terms below are general trade words. We describe them so that you can read any jewelry listing.
Lobster clasp
A claw-shaped clasp with a small spring-loaded gate. Common on fine chains and bracelets.
Spring ring clasp
A small round ring with a spring-loaded gate. It is simple, but it can be harder to open with a small fingernail.
Pavé clasp
A clasp whose face is set with small stones in the pavé style, so that it looks like part of the jewelry rather than a fitting.
Gold
Karat (K)
A measure of gold purity in twenty-fourths. 24K is pure gold. 18K is 18 parts in 24, or 75 percent. 14K is 14 parts in 24, or 58.3 percent. In the US, the word gold on a piece should be preceded by its karat. See 14k or 18k.
Solid gold
Gold alloy all the way through, not a layer over another metal. Our pieces are solid 14K or 18K. For how this compares with other terms, see solid gold vs vermeil vs gold-filled vs plated.
Vermeil
A thin layer of gold over sterling silver, at least 2.5 microns thick under the FTC Guides.
Yellow, rose and white gold
Three colors of gold alloy. The color comes from the mix of metals, not from a coating. Every chain comes in all three.
Stones and settings
Pavé
French for paved. A surface covered with very small stones set close together, with little metal showing between them. The Glittering Hamsa Charm is set this way.
Micro-pavé
Pavé with especially small stones.
Prong
A small claw of metal that holds a stone in place.
Bezel
A thin rim of metal that surrounds a stone, holding it from the sides.
Halo
A ring of small stones around a larger stone or a central design.
Enamel
A glass-like coating fired onto metal in color. Our Celestial Enamel Medallion uses white enamel.
Mother-of-pearl
The pearly inner layer of a shell, cut into a flat piece. It is used as a backdrop in some of our medallions.
Buying words
Made to order
Made after you order, rather than taken from a stock of finished pieces. Our pieces are typically ready in 2 to 4 weeks. See what happens between ordering and delivery.
Final sale
A sale that cannot be returned or exchanged. Custom pieces are final sale on our site.
About Ilene Joy
Ilene designed jewelry for the last three seasons of Sex and the City, as WWD reported in February 2019. She relaunched the label that year with her daughter, Rae, and every piece is made to order at our Los Angeles bench. As seen in WWD, National Jeweler, Grazia, Fashion Week Daily and Just Jared: read the coverage. More on who Ilene Joy is.
Questions and answers
Frequently asked questions
What is a bail on a charm?
It is the small loop at the top of a charm. The bail carries the weight and is where the charm meets the chain or a jump ring.
What is a jump ring?
A jump ring is a small ring used to join parts, such as a charm and a chain. It may be open, soldered shut or welded. A closed ring is more secure.
What is the difference between a lobster clasp and a spring ring clasp?
Both close with a spring-loaded gate. A lobster clasp has a claw shape and is easier to open. A spring ring clasp is a small round ring and can be fiddly. Both are standard trade terms.
What does pitch mean in a chain?
Pitch is the spacing between links, measured from a point on one link to the same point on the next. It is one way to compare chain sizes.
What does pavé mean in jewelry?
It comes from the French for paved. It is a surface of small stones set close together, with very little metal showing.
What do 14k and 18k mean?
They show gold purity. 14K is 14 parts gold in 24, or 58.3 percent. 18K is 18 parts in 24, or 75 percent. The rest is other metals that strengthen the gold.
