Solid gold vs gold vermeil vs gold-filled vs gold plated: what you are paying for
What each term means, and what you are paying for.
Solid gold is the same gold alloy all the way through. Gold vermeil is a thin layer of gold over sterling silver. Gold-filled is a thicker layer of gold bonded to a base metal. Gold plated is the thinnest coating. Under US rules, each term has a minimum standard. Ours is solid 14k or 18k gold.
Five terms, in order of how much gold you get
The words on a jewelry tag are not marketing. In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission publishes Jewelry Guides, and they define what these terms may mean. The figures below come from 16 CFR 23.3 and 23.4.
| Term | What it is | The minimum in the FTC Guides |
|---|---|---|
| Solid gold | A gold alloy, the same all the way through | Must be marked with its karat, such as 14K or 18K |
| Gold-filled | A layer of gold alloy bonded to a base metal | The gold layer is at least 1/20 of the article's weight, and at least 10 karat |
| Gold vermeil | A sterling silver base with gold on all significant surfaces | Gold of at least 10 karat, at least 2.5 microns thick |
| Gold plate (electroplate) | A thin coating of gold, usually over base metal | At least 0.175 microns of gold |
| Rolled gold plate or gold overlay | A bonded layer, thinner than gold-filled | At least 1/40 of the article's weight |
A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter.
What solid gold means
Solid gold is not 24-karat pure gold. Pure gold is too soft for most jewelry. It is mixed with other metals such as silver and copper, and the karat tells you how much of the alloy is gold.
- 14K is 14 parts gold in 24, or 58.3 percent.
- 18K is 18 parts gold in 24, or 75 percent.
Every piece we make in the builder is solid 14K or 18K gold. The color is the same on the surface and in the middle. If you scratch it, the metal beneath is the same metal. That is why it can be polished, repaired and re-finished. There is no layer to wear through.
Our guide to 14k or 18k gold explains the difference between the two.
What vermeil means
Vermeil is gold over sterling silver. Under the FTC Guides it needs gold of at least 10 karat and a layer at least 2.5 microns thick. It also needs silver underneath. If a base metal such as nickel sits beneath the gold, it cannot be called vermeil without saying so.
Vermeil looks like gold when new. How long it keeps that look depends on how it is worn. Friction, perfume and water can wear the thin layer and show the silver.
What gold-filled means
Gold-filled is a layer of gold alloy mechanically bonded to a base metal, usually brass. By FTC definition, the gold must be at least 1/20 of the total weight of the piece. It is considerably thicker than plating, and many people find it wears well for the price.
It is still a layer. A deep scratch can reach the metal below. It cannot be resized or repaired like a solid piece, because the gold layer does not go all the way through.
What gold plated means
Plating is a thin coating applied by electricity. The FTC sets the minimum for "gold plate" at 0.175 microns of gold, which is about one fourteenth of the thickness required for vermeil. Heavy gold electroplate needs 2.5 microns.
Plating is the lowest-priced option and the shortest-lived. It suits costume pieces and trends you may want to change next season.
So what are you paying for?
With solid gold, you are paying for gold by weight. The price moves with the daily gold rate. With plated, filled and vermeil pieces, you are paying mainly for the base and the process, plus a small amount of gold.
A simple way to decide:
- Wear it every day, for years: solid gold.
- Wear it often, at a lower price: gold-filled or a thick vermeil.
- Wear it for a season: plated.
Our charm necklaces are set with diamonds and made to order, so they are solid gold throughout. You can see what that costs in how much a custom solid gold charm necklace costs, with live prices.
How to check what you are buying
1. Look for the karat mark. 14K, 18K, 585 or 750 means gold alloy. Under the FTC Guides, the word gold should be preceded by the correct karat. 2. Read the word before "gold". "Filled", "plated", "overlay" and "vermeil" all describe a layer. 3. Ask what is under the gold. For vermeil, the base should be sterling silver. 4. Ask about repairs. A solid gold piece can be repaired and polished. A layered piece often cannot.
If you want to see how a solid gold chain is described and priced, start with Design your own.
About Ilene Joy
Ilene designed jewelry for the last three seasons of Sex and the City, as WWD reported in February 2019. She relaunched the label that year with her daughter, Rae, and every piece is made to order at our Los Angeles bench. As seen in WWD, National Jeweler, Grazia, Fashion Week Daily and Just Jared: read the coverage. More on who Ilene Joy is.
Questions and answers
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between solid gold and gold vermeil?
Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through, marked with its karat. Vermeil is sterling silver with a layer of gold of at least 10 karat and at least 2.5 microns thick. When the layer wears, vermeil shows the silver. Solid gold shows more gold.
Is gold-filled real gold?
Yes, in the sense that the layer is real gold alloy. By the FTC definition it must be at least 1/20 of the weight of the piece. But the piece is not gold all the way through, so it is not the same as solid gold.
What does gold plated mean?
It means a thin coating of gold, set by the FTC at a minimum of 0.175 microns for "gold plate". It is the thinnest and least durable of the options here.
Does solid gold tarnish?
Solid 14K and 18K gold does not rust, and the gold itself does not tarnish. The other metals in the alloy can dull the surface over time. A soft cloth and occasional polishing bring it back.
Is solid gold worth it?
For jewelry you plan to wear every day for years, most people find it is. It can be polished, resized or repaired, and the gold itself keeps its worth. For a piece you will wear a few times, a lower-cost material may be enough.
Are your charms solid gold?
Yes. Our charms and chains are solid 14k or 18k gold, set with diamonds and gemstones, and made to order at our Los Angeles bench.
